True story: I once called Walker ‘Walk-Dawg’ before we were dating. He took it well. I’m wrapping up our latest Europe trip here today, so I thought I'd throw a little snoop-dawg into our Europe trip. So, then. Here's something you don't know about me. I love hotels. I mean, I really love staying in hotels, reading about hotels, and wheeling my suitcase into a fresh hotel. I love the smell of the hallways, and pulling back crisp sheets. I love not making the bed and reading the flavors of soap…


When in Rome

We're being woken by birds and sunshine these days, and walking through weather almost as warm as Italy. Here it is, over a week since we've been back from our travels. No joke, we're only about halfway through the photos. If you've missed them, check out our latest travels here: Overview of all 9 cities Sorrento Pompeii Amalfi Coast Mozzarella factory Florence and Tuscany (and a couple in-betweeners here and here.) Rome is an epic destination, with pagan, Biblical and early Christian…


under the Tuscan sky

There's a place where the sun is always rising or setting, brushing long strokes out over the hills stacked like sheets of translucent vellum. The air is heavy with sweetness, the fields grafted with olives and grapes. Gold dust has been shaken all over Tuscany, my favorite part of Italy. We spent 4 days in the region, and our base was Florence, the caramel-chocolate of the box. We searched out the best gelaterias, ate gnocchi and risotto and ribollita (bread soup). We shopped for leather…


Tuscany, tomorrow

I'm bursting to share what we shot along the Arno River in Florence and in the square in Siena, on the streets of San Gimignano, and coasting through those layers of blue Tuscan hills. I've gone through almost 700 photos of Tuscany tonight, and have found gems of decadence I'd not even noticed while there. The variegation from golden flowers to green grasses to blue hills to pink skies that is coming your way is bello. Molto bello. But my eyes have tired and it's time to rest. Buonanotte.


the birth of mozzarella

My cheesemonger destiny was calling me (I mean, imagine having your name followed by 'cheesemonger' on your business card. Amazing.) We took quick trip to a family-owned cheese factory near Sorrento two weeks ago. I like cheese, a lot. But the rennet in raw milk combo, plus sloshing through cheese water, may have halted my destiny instantaneously. Whatever, because it was wicked fun. I've got to show you. Promise, it will be quick. We were 'required' to wear paper aprons, hats, and booties…


the most spectacular drive in Europe (Amalfi)

(some say.) On the upper ankle of the ever-fashionable boot that is Italy there is a stretch of splendor called the Amalfi Coast. The drive along the precipices started a mere ten minutes from our hotel in Sorrento. I simply have to show you. It was rainy and warm there, and it's sunny and cold in Scotland exactly two weeks later as I write, and I’m just going to let the photos do their thing. Because this place is gorgeous (no pun). The weather was a bit less than pristine, and the fact that…


the lost-and-found city

For three days, the ashes were so thick you couldn’t distinguish faces six inches from yours (Pompeii, AD 79). Two weeks ago, my nerves remained taut when our tour guide informed us, with an air of complete ordinariness, that Vesuvius was due to explode again. Please may this tour go fast, I thought. (There Volcano Vesuvius sits, cool as a cuke, in the background.) What Italy does better than anywhere is a history so deep you cannot reach the end of it, no matter how hard you feel for it.…


Arrivederci, Italy!

So, where was I? It's been long, too long. I've been hoping for some internet time that would let me pull you into a sidewalk cafe to tell you all about it over a dark espresso. Italy, sun-dazzled Italy. Here is my citrus-infused promise that all the sweetness we gathered from Tuscany and Rome and the coasts of Italy will be coming (and then on to the lowlands of Europe where we are presently sitting in sleekness and simplicity, sliding along canals and eating brown breads.) For now, come…


Sweet anticipation (Cinque Terre)

I was never a I want to be in the peace corps, or I'm signing up to be a stewardess type, so I could travel. Travel seemed exotic, something my grandparents did on their cruises. Someday. Someday came sooner than I'd thought. I found out my first year of college on a trip to London where I nibbled on digestives (what?!) and laughed over an outlet exploding a hairdryer and sat in John Keats' garden: this world is way bigger than I ever thought. The people, though, the people are all more…