South America


Perito Moreno

Walker and I met in Scotland, but what we didn't exactly realize for years was that this meant we both had a bit of an arctic magnetism in our blood. We thrive on trips north to cooler climes: Iceland, the Faroe Islands, Sweden and Norway. And so for years, we dreamed about the other extreme: the south. And in the best surprise ever, Walker's parents gave us the incredible gift of a trip to Patagonia in November.  After a few day layover in Buenos Aires, which was surprisingly bursting…


Buenos Dias, Buenos Aires

For me, so much of travel is lifting up the soggy log of my presuppositions to discover a whole hidden world, squirming and alive, beneath. And such was the case in Buenos Aires when we arrived, dry-eyed and hungry, in November of last year. I had thought it would be a slightly dirty city, gritty and a bit dilapidated. I actually don't know why I thought that, but there you go. Imagine my great astonishment from the plane when we flew over the city, and dotted throughout were bursts of purple…


The Peace of Patagonia

Less than two weeks from Christmas, and under two weeks since we returned from Patagonia, I'm sitting on the couch with the needles of our tree in my face---our tree perhaps a bit too overwhelming for our little apartment, but certainly joyful.  I thought coming home with less than a month before the holidays would leave me frazzled, but weirdly, here I am, with time to sit and write. We have dreamed of traveling far south for more years than we've dreamed of another place, and at the end…