Less than two weeks from Christmas, and under two weeks since we returned from Patagonia, I'm sitting on the couch with the needles of our tree in my face---our tree perhaps a bit too overwhelming for our little apartment, but certainly joyful. I thought coming home with less than a month before the holidays would leave me frazzled, but weirdly, here I am, with time to sit and write. We have dreamed of traveling far south for more years than we've dreamed of another place, and at the end o…