Why is it that the weather doesn't quite matter as much on vacation? While I always wish for the best, sometimes the weather showing what it's really like, instead of the possibility I dream, is part of the charm. Enter Fogo hiking in Newfoundland in July.
Temperatures are into the 40s. And our first hike, out to Brimstone Head, supposedly one of the "Four Corners" of the world, an arm that reaches into the sea nearby the hotel. We went with PJ, the hotel's head of activities, who knew every plant and animal on the island, and a new friend, Winn, from California.
The air was so full of mist and fog it almost condensed onto us, but walking through the clouds also felt a bit mystical and extraordinary.
But the white above focused the muted colors below, and I loved seeing all the succulents, mosses, and wind-hearty plants on the cliffs, so many of them various reds and pinks.
We made it to the peak and back without much of a view, but we did catch this beaut on the way back down.
All in all, hiking Brimstone Head was a freshening hour to start the day, and one of the not-miss features of the island, many islanders told us.
We loved the hike with PJ so much that later in the afternoon, we took another hike with him on a different part of the island, this time to Lion's Den.
On a northwest limb of the island, the trail took us through a large variety of ecosystems and vistas.
Clearly, the weather had changed and the sun shining of the teal waters made moments feel Mediterranean.
As ever, it was our guide, PJ, who brought the textures of the land to life--pointing out flowers, searching for sea glass, marveling at the waterfalls freshly running. We really enjoyed learning from him.
And we found so many gems!
With time to amble and be guided, the land seemed to un-layer itself, and all the nooks and crannies come alive. I could have looked at a single plant for hours.
We saw only a couple of people on the entire loop, and the solitude, the wind pushing through our jackets, the sun filling the world with color: it was perfect.
It's hard to see, but we found a new waterfall, right behind us. And! Special day: the photographer and traveling companion extraordinaire.
The land was spotted with broken shells from the gulls, and rich, thick foliage.
And remnants of swamp, which were much happier than the last swamp we'd experienced. Mainly because we didn't have to ford it.
Some turns of the trail reminded me of Maine,
and some of Wyoming.
It curved back to civilization, and the summer bugs were buzzing around.
All in all, some of our favorite few hours on the island were spent here. We can't wait to return.