Just as frost was reaching Brooklyn, our plane bounced through the humid, Southern skies into Charleston for a quick weekend look at a city I've long wanted to see. As we drove to our hotel Friday night,I'd already happily concluded this wasn't really a city. Charleston (pop: just over 125,000) felt more like a quaint small town. The walk to dinner in the warm evening mist started to relax the Northern tenseness out of me--and the crispy cornbread did the rest. Saturday morning brought one of my…
