The Cotswolds, Part 2

The Cotswolds are so still you almost check behind your back for fairies watching you. And then add the thatched roofs and you have no doubt they're there. I mean.

Cotswolds2016-6878

And after our day in the gardens, we had a Secret Cottage Tour booked. I really didn't know what to expect, but was most excited about peaking under those thick mats of thatched roofs. More on that soon.

Cotswolds2016-0436

Our day started in Moreton-in-Marsh, where our tour leader Charlotte picked us up in a Landrover

Cotswolds2016-0428

and then we were off through vales and forests; she squeezed the car through the smallest of wooden gates and into roads that seemed like small foot paths to show us hidden towns.

Cotswolds2016-0540
Cotswolds2016-0571
Cotswolds2016-0563

First stop on the tour was the secret cottage in the town of Chastleton; I think it was called secret because the way it sat on the land, it was hidden from the street and you had to walk through a few bushes to find it. Here she is:

Cotswolds2016-6739
Cotswolds2016-6745

The house is owned by the couple that runs the tours, and we made three stops inside the cottage for coffee (and croissants), lunch, and afternoon tea (PILES of clotted cream). They went out of their way to have a separate gluten-free section of food for me; such a treat!

Cotswolds2016-0528

They asked for no photos in the rest of the house, but my best description is: low ceilings, odd angles, and small rooms. We also learned about thatching: how pricey it is, how it is all hand-bound, made of river reeds, and how it lasts 50 years. Some of the houses had netting to keep the birds away. Chastleton's claim to fame is the Chastleton House and Garden

Cotswolds2016-6729
Cotswolds2016-6726

We also peaked into the tiny manor church, empty and quiet.

Cotswolds2016-0413
Cotswolds2016-6732

The damp green trails and lawns everywhere were just such an exhale.

Cotswolds2016-6734
Cotswolds2016-6737

And now, here's a look at some of the secret towns we wandered through. In total, I think we passed through 11-12 villages, but my favorite was Lower Slaughter, with its perfect town stream and mill and clean air. Such a children's storybook cover.

Cotswolds2016-0496
Cotswolds2016-0470
Cotswolds2016-0455
Cotswolds2016-0448
Cotswolds2016-6771
Cotswolds2016-6773
Cotswolds2016-6803
Cotswolds2016-6812
Cotswolds2016-6815
Cotswolds2016-6824

Upper Slaughter (surprisingly up the hill!), held high grasses and a church listing the vicars back through the 1200s. It was a perfect English summer day, just warm enough to ford an inch of ice water.

Cotswolds2016-6840
Cotswolds2016-6831
Cotswolds2016-6839
Cotswolds2016-6829
Cotswolds2016-6848

I learned a little Old English on the tour. The Cotswolds means "sheep shed on the hill", "Comb" means valley, "Stow" means a religious gathering, and "Ton" means state. "Chester" means it was originally a military camp. Just throwing those out there for your back pocket in case you ever visit Chesterstowton someday.

Cotswolds2016-6851
Cotswolds2016-6864
Cotswolds2016-0522
Cotswolds2016-0521

One of the most intriguing stops was to the town of Great Tew.

Cotswolds2016-0576

The history of the town included a recent (within the past 100 years) desertion of the entire town, and now, slowly, the houses are being reborn out of the tangle of branches. This one's time will come.

Cotswolds2016-0592
Cotswolds2016-0593
Cotswolds2016-0599

The town was idyllic, as the Cotswolds carefully restrict building outside their historic code.

Cotswolds2016-0620

This pub held a ceiling full of the local's mugs.

Cotswolds2016-0622
Cotswolds2016-0627
Cotswolds2016-0637

And always, after a few hours exploring the hidden spots, we'd be back at the cottage for another round of tea and scones. And then it was off to another small town: Eddington, Adlestrop, Chipping Norton, Great Rollright.

Cotswolds2016-0646

Someday I would love to come in the early spring to see the baby lambs dotting the wolds, or at Christmas, to huddle up by an old fireplace and listen to the quiet din. This puzzle piece of the UK's land is so delicious.

Cotswolds2016-6891

Up next: we left behind the greens for Aegean blues!

Cotswolds2016-0424