As anyone who has walked down a city sidewalk, past the beady eyes of pigeon scavengers can tell you: my greatest fear is a flock of birds flapping in my face. So this post's joy comes as much as a surprise to me as it will to you. Background: On the ferry to Fogo Island, we met a few locals, who mentioned that if the boat tour was going to Little Fogo Islands while we were there, we should definitely take it. Our hotel did offer it, and while we were not sure another boat tour after our Twillingate boat tour would be worth it, we spoke to others who had been and raved, so we decided to go out on the Ketanja to the Little Fogo Islands, mainly only visited in the summertime.
![20190706_135459-_Z7A7696 20190706_135459-_Z7A7696](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/abe66a51db9966088b67e77c439326bf/20190706_135459-_Z7A7696-900x900.jpg)
It was a bit of a blustery ride out, but we had met some wonderful friends to chat with, and the time just buzzed by like the salt air, lively and full of energy despite the grumpy skies.
![20190706_151724-_Z7A7931 20190706_151724-_Z7A7931](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/b47faa9876d6fda78e7d740f5f44be93/20190706_151724-_Z7A7931-900x900.jpg)
The hotel had loaned us thick jackets that seemed overkill, but turned out to be wonderfully cozy, and expeditiony. So glad we accepted! We waved goodbye to the hotel,
![20190706_131532-_Z7A7677 20190706_131532-_Z7A7677](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/a1f64198ad325d33942c306f86825579/20190706_131532-_Z7A7677-900x900.jpg)
and about an hour later, approached the huddle of islands to the north where we were headed: Little Fogo Islands.
![20190706_140249-_Z7A7760 20190706_140249-_Z7A7760](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/90fbc2230ce1292c5ec07a909ef78d19/20190706_140249-_Z7A7760-900x900.jpg)
![20190706_140057-_Z7A7753 20190706_140057-_Z7A7753](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/3a2ba2cd35b94f985b91717866689c70/20190706_140057-_Z7A7753-900x900.jpg)
We had been wooed by the history that was preserved on these arctic isles, and had heard there were puffins and sea birds. As we approached the islands, though, every single one of us was gaping.
![20190706_135538-_Z7A7705 20190706_135538-_Z7A7705](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/8a3b03364f41bcde39f634dd00fe3efa/20190706_135538-_Z7A7705-900x900.jpg)
The puffins were thick on the islands and took off in huge sheets, swarming the islands. The volume was nothing we could have predicted.
Even the boat's captain, who makes two visits a day to the islands, said he had never seen the magnitude, the great rushes off the cliffs.
![20190706_141326-_D5A8541 20190706_141326-_D5A8541](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/ff92d702b7a9db7a5df64a516338d95b/20190706_141326-_D5A8541-900x900.jpg)
![20190706_140402-_D5A8431 20190706_140402-_D5A8431](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/0444b2cf87fe96abf241c23256e36b69/20190706_140402-_D5A8431-900x900.jpg)
There must have been around 50 small islands, so we navigated in and out, the layers of rock between ochres and greens with the summer moss.
![20190706_140956-_D5A8488 20190706_140956-_D5A8488](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/fdd926cba2906caafac20ee4d6bbbb89/20190706_140956-_D5A8488-900x900.jpg)
The skies had cleared a bit into muted summer tones.
![20190706_140318-_Z7A7763 20190706_140318-_Z7A7763](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/126870b16a2d90dd10af3d86fb1e24f7/20190706_140318-_Z7A7763-900x900.jpg)
![20190706_140455-_Z7A7773 20190706_140455-_Z7A7773](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/b099044268419228eb747201eceb0640/20190706_140455-_Z7A7773-900x900.jpg)
The puffins stood outside holes where they were nesting, a few ravaging gulls lurking nearby that I tsked from far away.
![20190706_140424-_D5A8450 20190706_140424-_D5A8450](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/abe2d359683397f8b63a8066804a27b2/20190706_140424-_D5A8450-900x900.jpg)
![20190706_140427-_Z7A7765 20190706_140427-_Z7A7765](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/870d369c2d4b52af1203f5126ad30010/20190706_140427-_Z7A7765-900x900.jpg)
(Not puffins.)
![20190706_140543-_D5A8455 20190706_140543-_D5A8455](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/adbcaf6c0f0e7fe6e3398d8de5275d18/20190706_140543-_D5A8455-900x900.jpg)
There were other birds, but the majority, by far were puffins. As they launched off the cliffs above us, their short, stubby wings flapping like a little wind-up toy, and their cutest covered for the fact that they are, in fact, birds. They were joyful.
![20190706_141008-_D5A8494 20190706_141008-_D5A8494](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/0ac8b551100e7b0dfe3879dcdc0948ae/20190706_141008-_D5A8494-900x900.jpg)
![20190706_141316-_D5A8537 20190706_141316-_D5A8537](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/db32cece03d11f7e1176c9b21bd44196/20190706_141316-_D5A8537-900x900.jpg)
![20190706_144128-_D5A8710 20190706_144128-_D5A8710](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/52da657d826c74bdfb26b0d620e869c4/20190706_144128-_D5A8710-900x900.jpg)
![20190706_143339-_D5A8651 20190706_143339-_D5A8651](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/f04a72727371d2922840606a52c1a349/20190706_143339-_D5A8651-900x900.jpg)
The more secluded the boat got, the thicker the volume, the colonies swirling above us, and yes, we were covering our heads a bit for unexpected presents.
![20190706_141639-_D5A8562 20190706_141639-_D5A8562](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/3fbb077d2eb63eb8f9c956127e21c7bb/20190706_141639-_D5A8562-900x900.jpg)
![20190706_141655-_D5A8567 20190706_141655-_D5A8567](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/ba00c106c0b09c471ef2f10e87538518/20190706_141655-_D5A8567-900x900.jpg)
It was as magical as the photos look, spinning our heads with the rushes of black clouds it felt like the sky actually darkened.
![20190706_141718-_D5A8573 20190706_141718-_D5A8573](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/d5b7ea4d2d9d11c40d31f3b5947d7dbc/20190706_141718-_D5A8573-900x900.jpg)
Even looking at these photos now, my heart feels like it's lifting with the surprise we experienced.
![20190706_141637-_D5A8561 20190706_141637-_D5A8561](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/8364edce108aa07b2eaefdb5e5d18ade/20190706_141637-_D5A8561-900x900.jpg)
![20190706_141503-_D5A8551 20190706_141503-_D5A8551](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/460df4ef0eb26c605015f7829cb90cb4/20190706_141503-_D5A8551-900x900.jpg)
In all our travels, I cannot think when I have been more amazed, or full of awe, at life teaming outside the human world. It felt sacred to be near these birds filling the skies with their being.
![20190706_142046-_Z7A7796 20190706_142046-_Z7A7796](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/18c32ba5daa123beeef70ba1a48c8dc1/20190706_142046-_Z7A7796-900x900.jpg)
And then, we coasted into calmer waters, and found the hidden village we'd heard of: Little Fogo, no longer occupied.
![20190706_142104-_Z7A7798 20190706_142104-_Z7A7798](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/49d90d91a5413594ff61bfe5c3f8bfe6/20190706_142104-_Z7A7798-900x900.jpg)
![20190706_142255-_Z7A7802 20190706_142255-_Z7A7802](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/a6dc912bb80819d5df22c6306b01506f/20190706_142255-_Z7A7802-900x900.jpg)
![20190706_142545-_Z7A7807 20190706_142545-_Z7A7807](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/fc37ad643186b8c5ebe0295fccbfbbe6/20190706_142545-_Z7A7807-900x900.jpg)
Here, fewer birds, and the skeletons and well-preserved huddles of the town that thrived 60 years ago off this cod-saturated waters.
![20190706_142651-_D5A8584 20190706_142651-_D5A8584](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/c7e2a882877d243fa347d451072e6641/20190706_142651-_D5A8584-900x900.jpg)
![20190706_142903-_D5A8597 20190706_142903-_D5A8597](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/d4ae56eb5623cfd82bb062dffe0ae923/20190706_142903-_D5A8597-900x900.jpg)
![20190706_144444-_Z7A7834 20190706_144444-_Z7A7834](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/515a973968fdbca702a3341e3320d8a9/20190706_144444-_Z7A7834-900x900.jpg)
![20190706_150824-_Z7A7881 20190706_150824-_Z7A7881](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/f71151df694da598ec3967ecff68485d/20190706_150824-_Z7A7881-900x900.jpg)
We disembarked the boat for a half hour on the island,
![20190706_150930-_Z7A7887 20190706_150930-_Z7A7887](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/212c1bfdb4552b35e7e9ddb7c2d97490/20190706_150930-_Z7A7887-900x900.jpg)
where one of our fellow guests found wild sorrel for us to try, and we peaked into unlocked buildings that some Fogo Islanders still camp in during the summertime.
![20190706_144957-_Z7A7843 20190706_144957-_Z7A7843](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/91595059aca47071675ff9e2904c5160/20190706_144957-_Z7A7843-900x900.jpg)
![20190706_150516-_Z7A7870 20190706_150516-_Z7A7870](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/5e605758209acabe7c2f13dc52c87450/20190706_150516-_Z7A7870-900x900.jpg)
Perhaps the most amazing part was the active St. Anne's church, built in 1867, which still has one service a year; the wooden buidling was in impeccable shape, clearly loved and cared for.
![20190706_150041-_Z7A7862 20190706_150041-_Z7A7862](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/c1407e5c01c2c0dca3398842d1b42190/20190706_150041-_Z7A7862-900x900.jpg)
![20190706_145538-_Z7A7849 20190706_145538-_Z7A7849](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/02cd09f2515bcd8f05445d9c7c1a06e3/20190706_145538-_Z7A7849-900x900.jpg)
The view from the church perhaps the best I have ever seen.
![20190706_145322-_Z7A7847 20190706_145322-_Z7A7847](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/3f71c6d0d48b8874b5aa6dbff97c656f/20190706_145322-_Z7A7847-900x900.jpg)
While the colorful structures made the island feel like a fairy sea world, we heard how hard and secluded life was here, whole generations sustained miles from anywhere,
![20190706_145114-_Z7A7846 20190706_145114-_Z7A7846](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/1af7519a170718d36da5928c17039c0f/20190706_145114-_Z7A7846-900x900.jpg)
and life was certainly not easy with no outside communication or electricity.
![20190706_150744-_Z7A7877 20190706_150744-_Z7A7877](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/e81aea13807e9b532993c91af67d4033/20190706_150744-_Z7A7877-900x900.jpg)
The winds whipped around us with the puffins and yet these wooden structures held firm, some over a hundred years old with little maintenance.
![20190706_145828-_Z7A7853 20190706_145828-_Z7A7853](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/f9ece5c2a04816be8f57130d7a9d0ae2/20190706_145828-_Z7A7853-900x900.jpg)
![20190706_150757-_Z7A7878 20190706_150757-_Z7A7878](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/01b63f154df5020b2d459c2a1fcffe9c/20190706_150757-_Z7A7878-900x900.jpg)
![20190706_145739-_Z7A7851 20190706_145739-_Z7A7851](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/ff580a3163588b3e9937a9a95d5b9339/20190706_145739-_Z7A7851-900x900.jpg)
![20190706_151033-_Z7A7894 20190706_151033-_Z7A7894](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/a179a38ac358346fd7a2d919e64e42e9/20190706_151033-_Z7A7894-900x900.jpg)
![20190706_151021-_Z7A7893 20190706_151021-_Z7A7893](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/db782c7f5fe6f64b51c401cbf17417ce/20190706_151021-_Z7A7893-900x900.jpg)
![20190706_151318-_Z7A7907 20190706_151318-_Z7A7907](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/b9d8315ad33ea2cc5123f615c5f06257/20190706_151318-_Z7A7907-900x900.jpg)
We had met such lovely friends on the ride, that the time going back, this time a little bit warmer, actually, sped.
![20190706_151254-_Z7A7900 20190706_151254-_Z7A7900](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/2485218f4c6cc7b3d485734c1e45fc4a/20190706_151254-_Z7A7900-900x900.jpg)
Since it was a day where free fishing (or whatever the technical term) was allowed, our captain threw out some lines,
![20190706_151542-_Z7A7922 20190706_151542-_Z7A7922](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/7d488307ab851e6cb26d18c0c4164e81/20190706_151542-_Z7A7922-900x900.jpg)
And our new friend Tracey had luck with the cod!
The pastel skies coming back almost felt like it was earlier in the day, like we had entered a mysterious time lapse.
![20190706_152608-_Z7A7943 20190706_152608-_Z7A7943](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/885b552932d96a7f5c33ddb0af96f508/20190706_152608-_Z7A7943-900x900.jpg)
![20190706_160843-_Z7A7999 20190706_160843-_Z7A7999](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/2e3aef4d8df47e36b0542b3b34b33ce5/20190706_160843-_Z7A7999-900x900.jpg)
We came back to the larger Fogo invigorated.
![20190706_161301-_Z7A8001 20190706_161301-_Z7A8001](https://media.walkandalie.com/images/6c36bd927b53b4bc724ad832b3677ab5/20190706_161301-_Z7A8001-900x900.jpg)
By the wild and the little puffin wings and the winds. And mainly, by new friendships started over the sound of the boat's motor.