2018

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Awasi

(Meant to post this 2 weeks ago, but here it is at last!) It is the bleak midwinter around here. Not too cold, and little snow. I've had a cold (flu?) over 2 weeks. And even the pigeons are too bored with the gray to be out. And so, I have two strategies for dealing with this. Ok, three. 1. Cook something new every night and end up with way too many leftovers. 2. Dream about an upcoming trip that is a surprise to my main man and 3. reminisce! And right here, right now, we're at #3.  Look…

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Sierra Baguales: My Favorite Day in Patagonia

A six hour drive from the winds of Eolo and the Calafate region of Argentina, and we arrived at the place I had dreamed of for years: the Torres del Paine region of Chile, and what truly feels like the heart of Patagonia. I'll come back to our arrival at the Awasi lodge in another post, our home base for the next 6 days, but wanted to share our first day of excursions in the region. The lodge where we stayed is situated just outside the famed national park. On our first day of excursions, at…

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Estancia Cristina

Before taking off on our adventure to Patagonia, a colleague mentioned she had done a hike at Estancia Cristina and that it was very long. Gulp. That hike was in our itinerary. Add a 7 hour glacial hike the day before and very sore quads, and I wasn't sure what to think.  Knowing me (if you do), how exciting do you think a fossil hike sounds? About half of that phrase is interesting to me, and the fossil part is not it. It's not that I don't think fossils are cool, but a long hike to…

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Icebergs and Glaciers on Lago Argentina

My legs being a bit touchy from our glacier hike, I was a little wary of the 14km hike that awaited us the next day. In fact, when we arrived back at our lodge from hiking the glacier, I feverishly texted my track-coach dad for some sore muscle relief tips. Thankfully, the hot bath did the trick, and I packed up, ready to roll the next day. With ma sunglasses + hat look because that glacial glare was fierce. The trek of the day was to a historic ranch called Estancia Cristina, but to get there,…

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Eolo and El Calafate

All the E's! And all the eeee's for how the wind sounded absolutely whipping across us here in Argentina. I mentioned our stay in the Argentinian side of Patagonia here, but wanted to share a bit more about our home base stay, because it was a destination just as much as our glacier walks and hikes were. In fact, the presence of our remote lodge, Eolo, remains one of our very favorite stays ever, anywhere in the world.  The lodge's van picked us up at the El Calafate airport, and thanks to…

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When Glaciers Run Blue

During our Patagonia trip, I had a realization that writing it now seems so apparent, but I had never formulated into a whole thought before: what I am longing for in a good trip is often someplace remote. The set-apartness from cities, crowds, and technological noise is really what makes a place refreshing, even if it involves multiple flights. At the same time, when we are in remote places--places like Sapa in Vietnam or the wilderness of Tanzania, I feel a bit of fear. What if I fall? Can I…

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Perito Moreno

Walker and I met in Scotland, but what we didn't exactly realize for years was that this meant we both had a bit of an arctic magnetism in our blood. We thrive on trips north to cooler climes: Iceland, the Faroe Islands, Sweden and Norway. And so for years, we dreamed about the other extreme: the south. And in the best surprise ever, Walker's parents gave us the incredible gift of a trip to Patagonia in November.  After a few day layover in Buenos Aires, which was surprisingly bursting…

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Buenos Dias, Buenos Aires

For me, so much of travel is lifting up the soggy log of my presuppositions to discover a whole hidden world, squirming and alive, beneath. And such was the case in Buenos Aires when we arrived, dry-eyed and hungry, in November of last year. I had thought it would be a slightly dirty city, gritty and a bit dilapidated. I actually don't know why I thought that, but there you go. Imagine my great astonishment from the plane when we flew over the city, and dotted throughout were bursts of purple…

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The Peace of Patagonia

Less than two weeks from Christmas, and under two weeks since we returned from Patagonia, I'm sitting on the couch with the needles of our tree in my face---our tree perhaps a bit too overwhelming for our little apartment, but certainly joyful.  I thought coming home with less than a month before the holidays would leave me frazzled, but weirdly, here I am, with time to sit and write. We have dreamed of traveling far south for more years than we've dreamed of another place, and at the end…

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Chitown Part Two

Quick recap of our Chicago trip back in June here! And jumping back in from the start, one of the hallmarks of the city were the elevated tracks. I found them really annoying, though, as they blocked a lot of light, making the city feel dark and pigeon-laden. Still, the city shone in other ways! Some highlights from around the city included (in no particular order) . . . a visit to the Restoration Hardware Gallery, which was a bit like a hotel, without overnight guests, popsicles and GF…