To me, fall has always been the most wonderful time of the year. This started as a little tike when I learned what fall was and assumed my late September birthday, right after school started, was in the fall. Even when I realized it was on the trail of summer (boo hiss), my ardor has persisted. I love everything: the dry scent of the leaves' underbellies, the first sign of white steam off a coffee outside, the anticipation of burst of color––and the reality of a lone tree here and there boiling …
Year: 2016
Amoudi Bay, Santorini
On our last afternoon on the island, we took a cab five minutes down the back of the island to the port of Amoudi Bay for the famed lobster pasta. Amoudi sits at the very base of the cliff on which Oia towers, at the farthest point on the north of the island. The water in Amoudi was reminiscent of the clarity in Chania on Crete. For our very last meal in Greece, we sat at the Sunset Taverna one foot from the lapping Adriatic with no guard rail, and listened to the waves pat the wall and the boat…
Imerovigli, Santorini
Oia, where we stayed, is on the northern tip of Santorini; Fira, the capital is in the middle, and between these two is the sleepy village of Imerovigli. We took a cab to dinner in Imerovigli one evening and from our quick time in the area, were surprised at just how quiet it was, and that there was no main street or walkway. If we ever get back to Santorini, I'm putting this wee hike to the end of this natural zigurrat-shaped hill on my list (before dawn!) Because, did I mention it's heat? Thi…
Oia, Santorini
Can you believe that view?! It's about 3 months too late, but I'm thrilled to share about the last leg of Eurotravanganza summer trip to England and Greece at last! Our high speed ferry from Crete on the the Hellenic Seaways, picked us up from Heraklion on Crete and were were pleasantly surprised to find quite a luxurious interior. Since the boat left early in the morning, I dozed while Walker took photos of the view. As we approached the crescent of Santorini and pals in the early morning hea…
Spinalonga, Crete
On our last full day on Crete, we took one final expedition, and it is a word just as windy as the island was: Spinalonga! Relaxed all day in the pool and then floating in the ocean, squinting toward that mythical little place, we become a little curious about the round little world so close. So here are the history deets: the island of Spinalonga is a small 21 acres that was actually once connected to Crete. But hundreds of years ago, the Venetians cut it off for strategic purposes, and a fort …
Elounda, Crete
Our Cretan journey landed us in our final destination, Elounda, after a lovely morning in Chania and drive across the island. Elounda, on the northeastern side of the island, is a town of many beach resorts thanks to a calm inlet and shockingly clear beaches. The view from our room at the resort, the beautiful Blue Palace looked out on the island of Spinalonga, where we visited. I'll share more in the next post about that. We woke to hot sunshine and the most enormous buffet breakfast (they even…
Rethymno to Heraklion, Crete
My father-in-law has a knack for finding the local take when we travel, and on our recent Greek trip, had booked a tour from Chania across the island with Lefteris. When the taxi arrived, his daughter Alexandra was there to pick us up--she was petite, spunky and super fun, and drove across the north of Crete west to east to our final destination of Elounda. If you drove it straight, I'm guessing it would take 3.5 hours, but Alexandra took us to so many incredible sights along the way that the to…
Chania, Crete
Eurotravaganza, as we dubbed our recent European galavant, continued from London and the Cotwolds (posts 1 and 2) with a direct-flight from London Gatwick to Chania, Crete. Pronounced "hahn-YA", Chania is an ancient town on the northwest side of the island, the second largest town on Crete. Crete is the largest of the Greek islands and in our few days on the island, we discovered enormous geographic variety: from olive trees and barren hills, to pristine-turquoise beaches, to some of the oldest…
The Cotswolds, Part 2
The Cotswolds are so still you almost check behind your back for fairies watching you. And then add the thatched roofs and you have no doubt they're there. I mean. And after our day in the gardens, we had a Secret Cottage Tour booked. I really didn't know what to expect, but was most excited about peaking under those thick mats of thatched roofs. More on that soon. Our day started in Moreton-in-Marsh, where our tour leader Charlotte picked us up in a Landrover and then we were off through vale…
The Cotswolds, Part 1
Eight years later, and I still feel with mirror precision the peace and quiet of sitting on an old bench by the shallow stream that barely moved through the center of Bourton-on-the-Water when my dad and I visited. (Side note: He was dropping me off at grad school in Scotland. 8 years ago!) You could see straight to the silty bottom of the foot-deep stream, inviting ankles. We would've gone nearly anywhere, but how lucky that our friends decided to marry in the heart of this lovely place? After…